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Helmut Lang consistently creates nonchalant, effortless appeal without revealing the workmanship behind it. Only while visiting the show room, could I see the detail and thought put into each slouchy tee or skinny jean. For Spring/Summer 2012, designers Nicole and Michael Colovos build upon the label's edgy urban appeal, creating refined, cool pieces in supple leather, denim and jersey.

Drapes, cropped angles, sharp folds and cutaways for tees and jackets create flattering, asymmetric, layered silhouettes that work well with the line's perfect-fit skinny jeans. For dresses and tops, backs are often as interesting as garment fronts — another hallmark of the label. For early Spring 2012, Helmut Lang adds a deep blue algae (for jeans, prints and tops) to its classic mix of black, white and tan-to-pewter neutrals. For second and third deliveries, vibrant to softening yellow are the statements. Pink-casted khakis conclude the season, heading into fall.

Favorites: Deep cyan skinnies, Richard Serra-inspired prints on tees and dresses, pewter jeggings, yellow leather perforated shorts, all of the slouchy cropped blazers

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