Denim on the Runway: Spring/Summer 2012: Andrew Buckler
New York Fashion Week is ending and there's finally time to sit down, soak blistered feet, and round up the rest of the shows and events from this fabulous week.
One of the most entertaining presentations, in a fashion-y sort of way, was the Andrew Buckler show set in the backdrop of the Meatpacking District. The invitation said the location would be "Gansevoort Street - between Greenwich and Washington Streets" so I headed to MePa thinking that maybe it was taking place in a shop or converted warehouse. Instead, I arrived at Gansevoort and saw the street was blocked off with fashionable types gathering on both sidewalks flanking the cobblestone street. Now the astericked note below the address that stated "the runway presentation will take place rain or shine" made a lot more sense.
When the show started, the models made full use of their cobblestone runway, entering from a space midway, walking east, then turning and walking west, taking up almost the full length of the runway. (Forgive me, but New Yorkers have a good sense of North, South, East and West) It gave us plenty of time to study the collection, with everyone having a good view. *Sigh* I love a democratic runway.
Buckler has a distinct European aesthetic that is a mixture of tailored and grit. Slim tapered legs dominated the collection in trousers, jeans and shorts, however, there were roomier silhouettes thrown into the mix as well. Tasteful but edgy embellishments and washes was seen in dark, indigo-dyed denim or super bleached-out marblized washes. Patches could be seen on many of the lighter washes of denim but Buckler managed to make them look very masculine and covetable.
The show wrapped up with all of the models doing their final walk together in a sort of runway gang --a gang with brooding, smoldering, hot male models. I noticed the people at the restaurant across the street looking puzzled as if they'd just walked in on something. Then, I noticed the crowd of tourists gathered on the Highline looking excited and overwhelmed. How fortunate for them. I suspect there were a lot of animated dinner conversations that evening.


Helmut Lang, New York City
G-Star Raw, Berlin
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