QOTD? When Does a Jean Stop Being a Jean
There is a topic that comes up every time I have a conversation about denim -jeans specifically. That topic is, when do jeans, stop being jeans.
Let me explain. Traditionally denim is a 100% cotton, indigo-dyed, 2x1 right hand twill. In other words, it doesn't stretch and it lasts forever. Prior to skinny jeans, when the premium bootcut was king, err queen, most jeans would have, at most, 2% stretch. This allowed the denim to conform a little better to the body without taking away the core traits.
Fast forward 10+ years, skinny jeans reign supreme and jeggings are a closet staple. The body-skimming nature of the skinny naturally requires more stretch for technical purposes such as butt-lifting and tummy-flattening, not to mention comfort. However, what began as a practical purpose has spun so far out-of-control that I can't see it as anything but a cost-cutting measure that cheapens the quality of some jeans and teeters on the edge of what can actually be considered denim.
I own a pair of jeans that I've worn often enough to say that they are one of my favorite pairs. The distressed jean, by a brand I choose not to name, has been brushed on the surface so that the denim feels soft to the touch and the 8% stretch (the remainder is cotton) hugs my curves nicely. However, after about three days of wear (I usually wear my jeans more times than I care to share before washing) they lose their shape. The result is that I'm washing them more often then I'd like which leads to another problem -the color doesn't last as long as I'd like either. Not only that, the white yarns that usually string across carefully engineered holes have all but broken off because the lycra strands weren't durable enough to last. So it's just my thigh and the fresh air. Because I really like these jeans, I've had to reduce how frequently I wear them so I can keep them a few more years. Needless to say, this is not supposed to happen. You're supposed to be able to wear a pair of jeans over and over again and keep them for years and years.
A few months ago I had a conversation with Catherine Salfino of Sourcing Journal Online and we both found ourselves lamenting over the 'side-effects' of too much stretch in jeans, specifically their inability to recover their shape after just a few wears. Salfino said that she's seen jeans with more stretch than cotton, which I quickly dismissed as not denim. But then I should know. After all I eat, sleep and write about jeans. It's all I wear only broken up by the occassional dress. For me anything less than 92% cotton is a legging and as I mentioned above, even 8% stretch has a significant impact on the quality. To further emphasize my point let me share a story. Last week while I sat on a crowded subway, a girl stood in front of me in a pair of vibrant pink jeans. No matter how hard I tried, my eyes kept focusing on the back of this poor girl's thighs. Why? Because I couldn't stop staring at her cellulite. No her jeans weren't see-through. On the contrary they were quite opaque. The problem was her jeans had so much stretch in them that every hill, valley and orb of her flesh was clearly defined. I found this unfortunate. Not because of the cellulite, many of us suffer from it, but because her jeans were doing a poor job of concealing it. Again, this is not supposed to happen. Jeans are supposed to keep their shape, get better over time and hide major flaws.
Denim has been a hot topic this spring, making it's way on countless lists usually titled "Top (enter number here) Denim Trends to Try This Spring". Included on these lists are usually items that share no other quality to traditional denim jeans except for the fact that they are tailored in a five pocket style. For example, Elle.com recently featured a pair of sequined jeans by Wildfox on a must-have list. To further emphasize their sparkly character, the model wore them with a pair of spangly hi-tops. Then there's Opening Ceremony who featured a pair of "handwoven boucle mohair" jeans on Instagram. Wait a minute, jeans are supposed to be cotton twill. Am I right?
The line between what constitutes denim jeans has gotten so diluted that even I sometimes wonder what constitutes a jean. Is it the fabric (a 2x1 right hand twill) regardless of fiber (cotton vs lycra)? Is it the five-pocket construction regardless of the type of fabric (twill vs mohair)? Is it the indigo-dye, regardless of either one? I tend to be a traditionalist. Although I like the other versions, in my opinion, if they're not cotton twill they're just pants. But I'm curious to hear what you think.
When do you think a jean is not a jean?
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