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Brand to Watch: Williamsburg Garment Company

First, let me start off by saying, as long as this post is, I have had to condense it several times, because it is very difficult talking about Williamsburg Garment Company without talking about the workingman's journey and business savvy of founder Maurice Malone. I met Maurice in his Williamsburg office and what I expected to be a typical "walk me through the line" session turned into much more. It's rare to meet with the actual designer of a line, so to get the inspiration directly from the source was a real treat. But with Maurice I got much more, his story. He's a very soft-spoken and humble person who was a victim of the economic downturn after 9/11. Without going into too much detail (because I want to get to the line) through grit, determination and a unique business model that brings cost savings to the retailer as well as the consumer, he managed to grow a fledgling brand from three styles in 2011 to a complete mens and womens collection that's sold globally. Impressive! Especially considering Maurice is a one man show. Again, I want to get to the line, but just know, we'll be revisiting him again. So watch this space.

Williamsburg Garment Company is made up of premium quality jeans, with minimal frills and gimmicks. There are no outrageous back pocket details, no fancy finishes and no outrageous silhouettes. When you buy a pair, what you get is a great fitting pair of jeans that can work with just about any look. The only identifying features are an embossed "W" on the belt line and an extended coin pocket. My favorite of the men's line were a pair of sulfur-dyed jeans (see below) which had the texture of stiff linen. Denim connoisseurs are going to love breaking that jean in. Also the neon orange jeans will have those guys who are early adopters of color jumping, no diving..head first..with a loud splash, into the trend. And we know camo is making a comeback, but Williamsburg Garment Company's cargo pocket-less chino is unique in a why-did-no-one-ever-think-of-it sort of way. The women's jeans were rife with pastels for Spring, which seems basic if you're not paying attention, which I was. The colorways range from a pale version and a darker version of each color with the pale version being the reverse side. They are not reversible, but being able to choose the reverse of the jean is another one of those why-did-no-one-ever etc etc moments. My favorite of women's were the engineer stripe boyfriend jeans. Stripes are popular for Spring but no one's done any other version than a skinny.

Overall, I was enamored with the quality of the collection. So many brands try to impress with their lines that they've forgotten that sometimes you just want a great pair of everyday jeans. Maurice has hit on a something so basic in us with his business approach that I am pretty confident that this line is going to blow up. Just remember, that when you're reading about it in GQ that you heard it here first.

Click on the thumbnails for more images from Williamsburg Garment Company.

Brand to Watch: Pearly King

 

So after reviewing the lookbook for UK menswear brand Pearly King the first question that came to mind was "Would men wear a brand called Pearly King?" Not that a brand aimed at the men's market should have a macho name, but the words pearly and king mashed together seemed unusual...at first. Because, after some thought on the idea, I realized that the name is exactly what caught my attention and rock-influenced types will most likely be drawn to that as well not to mention it's urbane rockabilly collection.

Pearly King employs a team called "Heavy Tailors" who have over 40 years of experience in the biz. These Heavy Tailors hand craft each garment including the finishes. The back pocket detail is also unique in that it is hidden under the pocket and revealed from natural wear and tear.

Click below for a small preview of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection

 

Levi's Artisan Blanket Collection Is Not Made for Night Time

 

Levi's is launching an exclusive women's capsule collection made from handcrafted and quilted artisan blankets from India. I really, really, really love this because quilts always bring to mind all that is good and right with the world. Okay, that may be a liiittle bit of an exaggeration, but you know what I mean.

The blankets are vintage and interwoven into the fabric and overdyed in deep indigo. The collection consists of a shirt, shift dress, reversible vest and my personal favorite, the cropped pants. Although the shift dress is a very close second. The collection hits stores this week. 

Click below for more images of the Levi's Artisan Blanket Collection.

Brand to Watch: Simon Miller

A fairly new brand, that has managed to get our attention is Simon Miller. When the campaign images came across my inbox I was immediately drawn to the saturated indigo washes and the sophisticated, yet understated designs. There's nothing that says knockaround jeans about this brand. Guys, take note; these are the jeans you wear for a night out or when you want to make a well thought-out look seem effortless.

For those that are denimheads, you will be happy to know that the collection is made entirely of japanese selvage denim. #Win

Click below to see more.

Jack Spade Launched a Denim Line. A Selvage Denim Line. Jack Spade x Cone Denim

 

 

Jack Spade, brother company to Kate Spade, is jumping in with both feet, not just into premium denim, but into full on denim connoisseur territory with the launch of their new selvage denim line Jack Spade x Cone Denim.

When I say jumping in with both feet, it's not just because the company is creating selvage denim jeans, but because they are using denim produced from one of the oldest denim mills in the US. Cone Denim's White Oak Plant in Greensboro, North Carolina is over 100 years old and houses vintage shuttle looms which are some of the most coveted in the business for producing archival denim. See what I mean? Both feet.

The American made jeans come in a straight leg and slim-straight leg in either raw form, washed or white, with custom features like a copper shank and airplane rivets. They also are made in standard five-pocket style with traditional details which I suppose are meant to maintain as much authenticity as possible.

The line is already available at retail in five offerings to start, with prices ranging from $195 to $295.

Click to below for a preview.

 

Selvage Denim...In Color!...From 7 For All Mankind

I add the dot dot dot because I'm surprised. Pleasantly surprised in fact. Although 7 For All Mankind is responsible for kicking off the premium denim trend as we know it, they appeared to be largely absent during the emergence of selvage denim's popularity; a trend which led to the dawn of the modern denim connoisseur. There was a time when wearing a pair of raw denim jeans, cuffed to show off the red thread that indicates selvage denim's continuous weave, meant that you really knew denim. So this is a good thing.

Although selvage is still a premium product and still carried in some denim lines, it doesn't have the same popularity it once had. Therefore, having a popular and fashionable denim brand like 7 For All Mankind could be a boost to the style and possibly lead to more mainstream options. The fact that they are pointedly not offering it in it's raw form, but instead selling it in two colors by the name of Passion Red and Coastal Blue for men could be just the beginning.

7 For All Mankind describes it's offering as a rigid Italian ecru, pigment sprayed and then stone washed. Prices will range from $228 for jeans and $298 for a jacket. The style can be found among their current Spring 2013 options, so if you are interested in being a trendsetter, just pop into one of their stores. I recommend the Passion Red.

Click below to see more.

 

A KIND OF GUISE "90 Days of Sun, Rain and Wind" Shirts

For Holiday 2012 and Winter 2013, German brand A KIND OF GUISE spent over 3 months authentically weather-beating denim shirting, exposing rolls of fabric to the natural elements in northern Italy's mountainous region near Lake Garda. Handmade into numbered shirts (only 100 created), the fabric tells a story of sun, rain and wind. Watch the video for inspiration.

 

 

3x1: A Denim Atelier and Factory in Downtown Manhattan

Last month I stopped by the SoHo factory-slash-denim-atelier 3x1. Founded in 2011 by Scott Morrison (whose previous credits include launching Paper Denim and Earnest Sewn), 3x1 is defined by its unique bespoke transparency model; all jeans are designed, sewn and washed within this 7,200 square-foot New York City location. Yes, you read right… a denim factory in the heart of downtown Manhattan. On offer, the brand has over 115 unique selvedge denims to pick from, sourced from all over the world. In addition, the label houses over 60 non-selvedge denims, stretch denims and twills.

Along with the Ready-to-Wear collection (which goes out to stores like Barneys, Bergdorfs and Ron Herman), 3x1 offers Bespoke, Custom and Limited Edition collections, all created on site and tailored for each specific customer. Limited Edition styles are kept in-stock, made in limited quantities of 8, 12, 16 or 24, and hemmed and finished with buttons and rivets of the customer's choosing.

3x1's Custom Made service includes time with a consultant to determine customer preferences for back pockets, thread and fabric. Lastly, the Bespoke service allows patrons to work individually with Morrison to create a pair of jeans from start to finish. Check out this new denim concept at 15 Mercer Street, SoHo.

 

GAP x GQ’S Best New Menswear Designers in America

This morning Gap debuted its limited-edition men’s collection, designed by GQ’s six Best New Menswear Designers in America. The one-of-a-kind assortment, which ranges from denim and outerwear to accessories, showcases each rising designer’s signature approach to men’s style. Read on for more info on each of these standout stars:

• BLK DNM by Johan Lindeberg celebrates the edgy uniform of the downtown set, where black jeans share sartorial space with tuxedo jackets and bombers.
• IAN VELARDI fuses active sportswear with classic tailoring techniques to form his signature uptown-meets-downtown aesthetic.
• MARK MCNAIRY NEW AMSTERDAM turns classic American sportswear on its ear. Military, workwear and athletic influences mesh in his rebellious and playful collections.
• Twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia of OVADIA & SONS bring fresh eyes to old-world tailoring, updating classic menswear items with unexpected details and pops of color.
• SATURDAYS NYC, founded by Morgan Collett, Josh Rosen and Colin Tunstall, brings surf style to urban dwellers with designs equally suited for sandy beaches and concrete sidewalks.
• TODD SNYDER resides at the intersection of rugged and refined. He makes clothes for the man who wears a jacket and tie because he wants to.