July 23, 2014

Christopher Griffin, President of WWDMAGIC Talks Denim

Christopher Griffin, President, WWDMAGIC and SOURCING at MAGIC - Head shot
Christopher Griffin, President, WWDMAGIC and SOURCING at MAGIC

 After writing about jeans for so many years, I must admit that I reached a point where I thought I knew anything and everything there was to know about denim. There was very little that surprised me and I felt confident in my denim-centric world, oftentimes forgetting that there were other sportswear categories like, you know, knits. Then I interviewed Christopher Griffin, President of WWDMAGIC and Sourcing at MAGIC Tradeshow, and discovered what should have been obvious -I don't know everything.

Without quite being aware of it, as I constructed these questions for Mr. Griffin, I already had his responses in mind. I assumed they would be in lock-step with what I thought I already knew. Therefore, I found myself humbled, and rightly so, when they weren't. Case in point, I always considered denim a leader in innovation when it came to eco-friendly processes, but Mr. Griffin pointed out that the adoption of things like organic cotton and vegetable dyes has been in practice long before the denim industry began its own initiatives. It goes to show, being denim-focused is great but having a more well-rounded, comprehensive view of the textile and apparel industry as a whole is better.

Read the rest of the interview below and if you're attending MAGIC, I'll see you there.

 

 

Consumers have an undying love of jeans and it’s been over a decade since denim has been considered a premium product.  Why do you think it’s still important for tradeshows like MAGIC to promote denim? 

Denim is still a staple item in every man, women, and child’s wardrobe, so we have to have a broad offering of it at MAGIC.  We actually don’t promote it separately, unless we have some brand celebrating a milestone of some sort.  As it turns out, our SOURCING AT MAGIC show has as its focus – ALL ABOUT DENIM. We’ll have denim factories from all over the world, as well as Cotton Inc*. and Jeanologia, both coming to talk about new eco-friendly denim processing techiniques.

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May 28, 2014

The Most Visionary Man You've Never Heard of...Until Now

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Jeff Shafer, CEO Agave Denim/BLUER Denim

It's a mind-altering experience when chatting with a visionary person. There is this specific intensity that exudes from them that slaps you thoroughly out of a daze and sweeps you into their gravitational pull whether you want it to or not. Before you know it, you're nodding your head vehemently, taking notes furiously and waiting for the book to come out so you can be the first to buy it.

That's the best way I can describe what happened to me during my recent chat with Jeff Shafer. You've probably never heard of him, but there's a good chance you've heard of his brands. BC Ethic, Agave Denim and most recently Bluer Denim, though vastly different, are all representative of his unique approach to doing business. An approach that's based on the principles of the American dream, a personal philosophy of social change and the desire to produce quality apparel. 

Although I describe him as a visionary, and everyone else would describe him as a businessman, Shafer styles himself as a Textile Denim Designer who's job it is to use finishing and washing "to bring out what's already there. [In other words] bring out washes that are natural, organic and compliment the fabric." That's true passion and when speaking to him you get a sense of how intensely he feels about producing quality denim. 

This kind of passion is something that has been severely lacking of late in the denim industry. It seems we've become so absorbed with fit, that quality is often overlooked. This is most evident with the latest influx of denim brands. Many of them are just launching pads for full apparel lines. The lack of appreciation for the heritage of the fabric leads to overall quality issues, many of which I've discussed in the past (see QOTD? When Does a Jean Stop Being a Jean?).

 

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April 17, 2014

Kutay Saritosun of ISKO Talks Innovation in Denim and Branding

Shanna McKinnon and Kutay Saritosun
Kutay Saritosun (right)

Denim has been the talk of the town this spring. Literally, not a day goes by where I don't see a magazine or blog covering the best denim for spring or the best places to shop for denim. I seriously need to step up my game. With denim on everyone's minds this season it's a wonder consumers don't speculate on why that is. What differentiates one brand from another? Why do premium brands like J Brand and Diesel sell at a higher price point than jeans from Gap or American Eagle? What is it about those premium brands that entice us to continually shell out hundreds of dollars for them even during a recession? Of course there's the obvious, fit. Nevertheless it takes more than butt-lifting technology to make a good pair of jeans. So what's the answer? Well there are several reasons, but one that is undeniable is the denim supplier. Just as all jeans aren't created the same, all denim fabric is not made the same and the quality of denim produced by a supplier has a significant impact on the overall product.

Continue reading "Kutay Saritosun of ISKO Talks Innovation in Denim and Branding" »

November 07, 2013

Nicola Formichetti Chatted With Us About #DIESELTRIBUTE, iPhone Photography and His Plans For the Brand

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Through the din of EDM music, PHHHOTO booth gif bomb distractions and buzzing types sipping champagne admiring the #DIESELTRIBUTE collection, oh and a sighting of The Man Repeller herself Leandra Medine, I was able to chat with Diesel' Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti about the inspiration behind #DIESELTRIBUTE, his unconventional marketing campaign and his plans for the brand.


I know that you went through the archives for inspiration, but what specifically in the archives inspired this collection?

My big fashion show is in March and that's what I've been working on, creating a really big show. But that's in March and I couldn't wait for it. So I did a little teaser. I really wanted something denim because that's what Diesel is known for. It's their DNA. That's what I remember about Diesel from the '90s and late '80's. The first [#DIESELTRIBUTE] is denim and the leather one comes out in February. They're small capsules, very unisex and basically I just went into the factories and found old patches. 

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March 05, 2013

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Leopoldo Durante, Creative Director of Meltin' Pot Jeans

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Leopoldo Durante, the newly installed Creative Director of Meltin' Pot Jeans, gave us one of our most candid and fun Five Questions for Five Pockets yet. Read what he has to say about denim and then click below to preview some images from the Meltin' Pot Spring/Summer 2013 campaign.



1. What was your first pair of jeans
My first pair of jeans were a pair of levi's 501 raw 14 ounce. I remember as kids that the word going around was [that] to get the perfect fit, you needed to sink into a bath with your jeans on and then let them dry on you to get the jeans to fit perfectly to your body! Well I did it and I can't forget the image I have of myself in a bath of blue water!

 

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon
I have the privilege to have worked with my friend Lapo Elkann and partner [with him] on the realization of Ferrari California with its interiors made of denim especially produced in Japan. [Created] under our guidance and to our specs and featuring a special blue bodywork finish... I have to say it was an exhilarating experience and I could not imagine anything that is more iconic than an indigo Ferrari.

 

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend
I believe that new technology is getting a lot closer to a more conscious and environmentally friendly production process. Ideally, I aspire to a return of denim that does not stretch, but is more consistent in weight and especially not treated in such a way that everyone can do through the process of  typical indigo decay, therefore customising your jeans by your personal usage of them. This in addition would really help the environment and would allow a return to the true nature of jeans.


4. What denim trend do you wish would go away
Stop with Skinny jeans. That is trivialization of people!

 

5. What's your number one rule for denim
Wear your jeans raw for as long as you can before washing them and then enjoy and take pride in your jeans that are personal to you... it's only in this way that you can be sure no one has the same jeans as you in the world!

 

Continue reading "Five Questions for Five Pockets: Leopoldo Durante, Creative Director of Meltin' Pot Jeans" »

March 03, 2011

Meet Remco De Nijs & Merrel Westhoff of G-Star RAW

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When a brand is a runaway success, a majority of the time we attribute it to designers, or more specifically, the creative director. It's just a natural inclination to praise the person responsible for creating the pieces. However, there are others that work behind the scenes; those important, yet unsung talents whose job it is to take the designer's vision and translate it in such a way that it is relatable. This season, as I watched G-Star's presentation during New York Fashion Week, I was particularly impressed by the juxtaposition of textures which I thought was very pleasing to the eye and drew attention to the craftsmanship. This credit can be given almost solely to the stylists.

G-Star has a penchant for putting together large and glitzy presentations. Therefore, it takes a lot of expertise to make sure that eyes still focus on the collection. The main talents behind this are Remco De Nijs and Merrel Westhoff with whom I had the pleasure of meeting the day after the G-Star runway show. Both Remco and Merrel embody the brand's DNA which revels in contrasts. Remco is sort of a G-Star everyman with a charming smile and personality to match. A part of the company since 1997, he started out in export management, but now has his hands in PR, sales and collection styling. Merrel is a stunning former model with a background in design giving her that coveted combination of intelligence and beauty. She currently styles the company's photoshoots as well as runway shows.

These two are involved in many of the brand's initiatives from events like "RAW Nights", to working closely with collaborative designers like Marc Newson. As we chatted about their roles within the company, at one point we began to go through the Fall runway collection. As we were taking garments off the racks, I was blown away by their knowledge of textures and fabrics. They could have easily fooled me into believing they were part of the design team.

One of the most impressive events that they've worked on this year was at Bread & Butter Berlin. Remco and Merrel were part of the team that styled what they called "The Slow Show". The Slow Show (see below) was a private viewing in Berlin hosted by model-cum-"it" girl Agyness Deyn where models meandered through the audience on "tables" while VIPs sipped cocktails.

Think about it. Thirty models. At least one change each. Plus, an over-the-top venue. You really have to appreciate the skill.


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November 04, 2010

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Taylor Jacobson

 

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It's been awhile since we've done a "Five Questions for Five Pockets" interview. So it brings me nothing but joy that our latest one features none other then celeb stylist extraordinaire, Taylor Jacobson. Taylor has had one hell of a year, what with rising to fame as the indefatiguably, hard-working assistant to Rachel Zoe on her eponymous Bravo reality series not to mention her tumultuous departure.

With her latest endeavor Taylor is proving the age old adage "Success is the best revenge". Adding designer to her multi-hyphenated title, she recently partnered with premium brand Kasil Jeans and has bounced back nicely. Her capsule collection "Kasil + Taylor Jacobson" is the first collaboration involving Kasil's The Workshop, which is a platform for partnerships with young talent in styling, music and contemporary art.

The Fall/Winter 2010 collection, smartly, reflects a little of Taylor's personal style and the line, which is already in stores, has been well recieved with my personal fave being the "Geek" peg leg trouser.

Stylist-cum-designer has got to be the perfect storm of fashion and that makes us all the more ecstatic to bring to you Taylor's answers to "Five Questions for Five Pockets".


1. What was your first pair of jeans?

Vintage Levi's were my first cool pair in 6th grade.

 

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

Denim? That's a tough one. But I know Jane Birkin is my style icon. And she looked good in anything!

 

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

Inserts are huge. Half denim/half leather...mixing fabrics.

 

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

Embrace all trends. Some trends just do not work for denim.

 

5. What's your number one rule for denim?

Wear what's comfortable.

 

 

You can purchase items from Kasil + Taylor Jacobson collection on Tobi.com. 



 

 

 

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August 05, 2010

Shubhankar Ray: G-Star RAW Visionary

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There are some people that learn how to be creative, whether it's from school, their environment or personal inspiration, but there are others, a chosen few if you will, that are born with a natural creative inclination that can not be contained no matter what paths others have laid before them.

Recently, I visited the Soho offices of G-Star RAW to meet Global Brand Director Shubhankar Ray who was visiting from the UK. I knew very little about him before then, but what I did know was quite impressive. Many of the original, experimental and groundbreaking concepts that come from the brand, such as the RAW Gallery, a pop-up installation that houses gallery style exhibitions of the runway collection as well as highly conceptualized pieces from the design team, come from the mind of Shubhankar. He is also responsible for creating the RAW Icon program which has seen superstars like Dennis Hopper and Benicio Del Toro participating as the first and second RAW Icons respectively. Another program he has facilitated is G-Star's involvement with the UN's Millennium campaign, a cause committed to ending world poverty. According to Shubhankar, social responsibility is not an option, but a condition of doing business today and he has committed the brand to the UN mission until 2015. The list goes on and on and it would be easy to rave about his accomplishments, which he graciously credits to the members of his team, and are numerous enough to fill several pages of any magazine. However, what I found most impressive was his far from ordinary backstory and a novel concept he liked to call "Mindstyle".

Armed with a Chemistry degree from one of the top five Universities in England, Shubhankar worked nights for UK band New Order which exposed him to London underground music and culture. Eventually, becoming disillusioned with his day job, he went on to get an MBA and was moved to the marketing department. The disparity of being a scientist working in the Marketing department would eventually kick off a creative philosophy of juxtaposed elements, unexpected combinations and changes of context that can be seen throughout his work and most prominently in G-Star RAW programs.

According to Shubhankar, there is no selling of a lifestyle when it comes to branding ---an idea which is in direct contrast to the philosophies of mainstream companies--- but only the offering of styling possibilities. To expand on this idea, he regards the G-Star design team, not as product designers, but as product engineers who offer styling solutions to consumers. This all is incorporated into a term which he's coined called "Mindstyle."

Mindstyle, is the opposite of lifestyle. It is more of an intellectual concept that gives consumers more chances to engage with the brand. As an outsider, his creative philosophy of contrasts combined with the concept of Mindstyle, at first, might seem confusing, but when talking to Shubhankar it all made perfect sense. Case-in-point, G-Star's current campaign features the world's number 1 chess player and youngest Grandmaster ever Magnus Carlsen as the face of the brand, alongside the beautiful and soft spoken Liv Tyler. It's the perfect example of fashion meets IQ, and the programs surrounding the campaign, such as the Raw World Chess Challenge, are interactive and engage the public intellectually while still promoting the G-Star brand. As Shubhankar also points out, it's the juxtaposition of eliticism and democracy as the world collectively (by vote) will decide on a chess move against Magnus with the help of three of the top grandmasters of chess.

I asked Shubhankar if he thought his background in science was the source of his unique approach to fashion and branding. His response was both surprising and uncomplicated. He explained that science is about simplifying complex processes. When considering trailblazers like Einstein, who utilized abstract thinking when developing new theories and experiments, it's actually quite easy to see that there is a very fine line between the creative forces of science and art.

My meeting with Shubhankar went over about 30 minutes as I was wholely absorbed in our discussion. I'm around creatives all the time in my business and many have abstract ideas which, I sometimes find to be esoteric and...well...out there. It's a rarity, and quite refreshing, to meet someone who is dynamic, inspiring and frankly, makes sense.

October 02, 2009

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Marck Marcellus, Goldspun No. 7

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We had the pleasure of meeting Marck Marcellus, Creative Director of Goldspun No. 7, a few weeks back and were impressed by the laid back demeanor of the brain behind this innovative premium brand. Marcellus can boast a well-rounded resume in the fashion industry from sales, to buyer, to design and a whole lot in between. Consequently, it seems starting his own line was a natural evolution and a no-brainer. 

Goldspun was founded in 2007 by Marcellus and three other partners who set out to create a line of fully-functioning garments that were tasteful and broaden one's interpretation of fashion. He describes the partnership as having lots of chemistry as "each partner plays a key and significant role." What they achieved is a denim line for both men and women where utility meets elegance. Raw japanese denim of the highest quality is used to create an aesthetic that combines classically tailored and refined looks with functionality. The high level of workmanship and attention to detail that goes into each garment has led Goldspun to attract a select set of celebrity tastemakers in a relatively short time, such as Usher and hot new sensation, Kid Cudi. All it takes is one look at the Fall 2009 men's line (see below) to understand why. Marcellus describes Goldspun as a "gift from heaven. A golden opportunity." It is this kind of love of fashion and devotion to creating a great product, that makes us proud to include him in this installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets


1. What was your first pair of jeans?

I'll never forget our first family vacation wearing these Dark Blue Lee Jeans with one of those floral shirts to match my Dad's. Parents are hippies.


2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

For me I will have to say Bob Marley with the crazy Cut & Sew denim shirts and tight denim jeans.


3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

Pencil cut and tuxedo denim silhouettes. That's all I personally wear.


4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

I'm not into the tie-dye, skin tight look. No offense.


5. What's you number one rule for denim?

Start with some raw jeans, preferably Goldspun Denim, and let them take, mold to you, and your life's journeys. 


FYI-Make you sure you check out their hot new website with the hot soundtrack. 

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August 18, 2009

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Daniel Carman, Over The Rainbow

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(Daniel Carmen (left) and Joel Carmen of Over the Rainbow)

With over 32 years in the business, Toronto-based Over the Rainbow has the largest selection of jeans in the entire country of Canada and can easily boast as being one of the longest running stores dedicated to denim in North America. There's a reason behind that kind of longevity and it can be directly attributed to
 a love and understanding of what makes denim 'premium' from fabric development to cut and fit. There's also a deep appreciation for the history of the jean and a knowledgeable staff found in only the best denim stores. Throughout the years, Over the Rainbow has become a destination site with scores of Picture 9prominent celebs patronizing the  shop known for its famed denim walls and extensive offerings, as well as an alterations department. Founded in 1975, by Joel Carman, with only $2000 in cash, the history of Over the Rainbow, can easily become a part of denim lore should it last another 32 years. It's because of this extensive knowledge and rich history that we are pleased to have Daniel Carman, for this installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets


1. What was your first pair of jeans?

Back in the early days of our store, the only premium denim brands around were Levi's, Big Star, Replay and Diesel. So my first pair of jeans could be any Levi 501, Big Star Digger, Replay 901 or Diesel Keetar. We have customers age 60 coming in still asking for those exact jeans. It stuns them when a young guy like me even knows about them. 

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

I'd probably say a whole series of denim designers who changed the face of jean designs, but the icon to me is every teenager in the 1970's who had the courage to rebel and wear jeans in a different way their parents did. Without that movement, jeans would not be seen, worn and sought after in the same ways they are today.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

So many denim trends have come and gone that it's really difficult to predict the "next" trend. I think the whole "boyfriend" craze is paving the way for another revival of "vintage denim", if it's not here already. I also know of a couple of brands that specialize in "raw denim" coming out with some amazingly innovative fabrications that will blow people's minds!

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

It's going away already, but crystals are meant to be worn as jewelry. They have no place on a jeans. It's not a natural look at all.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?

If you want to preserve the look of a jean, don't wash it so much. Denim doesn't retain dirt as easily as other fabrics, so wait before you wash them a million times. I wait months to wash my jeans (sometimes never at all), and if I've washed them more than four times (which could take years), they become jeans to lounge around at home.

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