Five Questions for Five Pockets: Anthony Frym, The Lab of Denim USA

 

We recently caught up with French designer Anthony Frym, owner and Design Director of The Lab of Denim USA.  Upon walking into his New York City showroom we noticed racks and racks of jeans, all unique, hanging in recesses in the wall surrounded by gilded frames.  We immediately learned that with The Lab of Denim USA it is all about the details.  There are several different ranges being offered where even the most basic jean is far from ordinary.  Frym is not afraid to experiment with different washes/finishes and the effects produced are entirely unique. An added bonus is the super cool wooden hangtag that comes with several styles including a Limited Edition range that only has 200 pieces available.  Although a fairly new brand, The Lab of Denim USA is ready to hit the ground running.  There are a ton of styles, with varying washes and silhouettes, covering every market that the showroom looks more like a boutique.  The offspring of another old and well established brand called New London USA, The Lab of Denim is sure to duplicate the same success. With Frym's denim heritage and unique take on denim we were excited to include him in this installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

As coming from France my first pair was Lee Cooper or Ober

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

In the industry would be, Renzo Rosso, Raymond Obermajter, Adriano Goldshmeid. In show biz, Serge Gainsbourg who represents for me the ultimate denim arrogance.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

The individuality of each wash. A sort of "educational story" between the consumer and the denim. A meaning and story behind each wash and nearly giving away the magic secrets. That is what at the Lab of Denim USA I bring with our limited edition.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

I love denim in and out. I respect any trends, designer or aspect of it ... Denim or trends for me are unusual fairy tales!

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
No rules, never stop thinking, never listen, never say no, never say ugh! The denim is a "live item", that the world will never stop wearing, loving, hating.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Chloe Lonsdale of MiH Jeans

 

If you think that London-based brand MiH jeans is just another label hopping on the premium denim bandwagon than you don't know jeans. It's history dates back to the 1960's where, founded by Tony O'Gorman, it was launched to fame by Tony Lonsdale the founder of popular UK denim emporium "The Jean Machine" whose stores numbered over 150 by the 1970's. During it's heyday, the then titled Made in Heaven jeans developed a terrific following of some of the most iconic names in celebrity and fashion, such as Farrah Fawcett and Jane Birkin of "Birkin Bag" notoriety.

After a hiatus, the brand has come back with a vengeance under the helm of Chloe Lonsdale, offspring of Tony and his top model wife Chekkie Maskell and goddaughter of Tony O'Gorman. Under the new moniker MiH jeans, the brand has managed to update itself for a new generation while still paying homage to its roots. Chloe Lonsdale finds the inspiration for most of her designs from the archives of the brand, putting together a line that is defined by tailored looks that are both classic and sophisticated.  With a rich denim heritage that few denim designers can claim we are super-ecstatic to feature Chloe Lonsdale in this installment of our Five Questions for Five Pockets series.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
They were a pair from my Dad's stock trunk in the attic at home. They were made by Male, a 70's brand, and had jet front pockets, bell bottoms and no back pockets and were the bestselling style when he launched The Jean Machine. They were also three sizes too big for me and I had to hitch them up with a belt, but it felt pretty cool at the time!

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
As a muse, Brooke Shields, as a mentor Calvin Klein. Their collaboration together was groundbreaking and I'm still over the moon today after seeing Brooke in MiH jeans!

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?
Its no longer about basic, unstyled jeans, but about properly finished ones with traditional rivets and most of all great quality denim that wears well. I also feel double denim will be seen more, with fine, washed out denim shirts and classic denim jackets making a comeback. This new denim trend will be much more sophisticated than the ripped and torn look of past decades. Jeans, however old and faded, will be washed, pressed and discreetly mended and worn with shirts elegantly tucked in. There will be an emphasis on great quality fits rather than embellishment.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
Torn ripped denim with fake dirty, bleached out washes! Denim is dyed with indigo which is a natural product that is meant to evolve and improve with age. Buying a forced look that is a moment in time makes the jean date quickly and yet a good pair of jeans should be timeless and stay with you forever!

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Wear a style that suits your figure shape, not what is in fashion at any point in time. Not everyone suits skinny jeans and they certainly aren't the most flattering cut. Jeans should be the base of your wardrobe and a fall back for anything and you should feel and look great in them always.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: [city of others]

We have met with many denim designers since the inauguration of DenimHunt.com, but there have been few with a story as interesting as that of Steve Opperman and Steve Dubbeldam of [city of others]. [city of others] is described as representing a community of youthful, global citizens who share a love for art, music, people, culture, denim and anyone who has dreams of making their mark on the world. In keeping with that philosophy, for every pair of [city of others] jeans you purchase, a part of each sale goes to the charity of your choice. The Steves began their careers as far from the fashion industry as possible with one working as a lawn mower and the other as a graphic designer, yet they had a love of denim and a keen eye for details that could not be denied.  The Steves have come a long way from their roots in tweaking vintage denim pieces and are now a bonafide premium denim brand currently featured in the September issue of InStyle magazine.  If this is any indication, expect to hear a lot about [city of others]. In the meantime, we are super-thrilled to feature the Canadian-born, but California-stamped Steves in our current installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
To be honest we can't even remember, probably something our mom got us with that rad stretchy waistband feature

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
James Dean on a motorbike with cuffed jeans and old leather boots is pretty inspirational for us.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?
We think that jeans will keep getting cleaner and more basic with a rolled hem for men's and for women's a more rock n' roll distressed jean. More slouchy silhouettes with dropped-crotches are going to be really fresh and forward. And we think that the biggest trend is brands that are committed to being socially-conscious and we're trying to lead the way in that for denim.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
It all comes and goes and we just laugh when we see trends that are horrible but I think it's safe to say that we're all tired of embellished jeans. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about details and well thought out trims but I mean, let's just let jeans be jeans.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
It's gotta fit great and the company should reflect the person wearing the jeans. It's always been our goal to make jeans that people are proud to put on and be associated with.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Eli and Moshe Azran, THE UNKNOWN FACTORY

Recently, we were flipping through the August issue of Lucky with Leighton Meester on the cover and gasped when we spotted a pair of skinny jeans with a pleated detail going down both sides. What an amazing idea, we thought. So, of course we looked for the description and discovered that they were the "Skinny Pleats" made by a company called THE UNKNOWN FACTORY. THE UNKNOWN FACTORY was co-founded by brothers Eli and Moshe Azran, both of whom have impressive backgrounds in the premium denim industry.  Their company is based in Los Angeles where every pair of jeans is handmade giving them the feel of custom tailored pants. Rejecting the logo trend on the back pockets that's prevalent on most premium brands, THE UNKNOWN FACTORY jeans are distinguishable by original, yet subtle detailing with the goal being to compliment rather than overpower.  We were able to catch up with the super-talented Eli and Moshe and are excited to feature them in our Five Questions for Five Pockets series.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
Eli: First pair of jeans, wow, probably Diesel

Moshe: APC denim

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
Eli: Serge Gainsbourg

Moshe: Everyone! I love people that have these super old worn out jeans. I really appreciate that.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
Eli: I love Tsubi, Nudie and Dior Homme.

Moshe: Still APC's. I live in them year long. As a man, I think you only need 2-3 pairs of jeans in your closet.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
Eli: I hate rhinestones and jeans that you can see from 10 miles away

Moshe: The denim suit!!!

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Eli: Fit, so important because if you have a pair that fits right they could be from Target and that would be better then wearing a pair of Dior jeans that fit like crap!

Moshe: Never mix and match different denims!!!

Look for their new Fall collection in Barneys New York, Henri Bendel, Intermix, Ron Herman and shopbop.com. 

 
 
 

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Lynn Downey, Levi Strauss

We already clued you in to the new Levi's book penned by Lynn Downey(left,) the brand historian for Levi Strauss. This time, we were lucky enough to bend her ear for a bit for our Five Questions for Five Pockets series.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

I think it was a pair of Levi's For Gals beige jeans covered with orange flowers. That must have been about 1968 or something. I eventually graduated to 5-pocket denim, though when I entered high school in California in 1969, girls were not allowed to wear pants to school. We could wear pants in our senior year, 1972, but not jeans. So I would get home from school and jump into my Levi's jeans. I'm the third generation (at least) of my family to wear Levi's jeans.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

Well, I think I'd have to say....Levi Strauss! Anyone who invents a product that people are still wearing more than 130 years later has earned icon status in my book.  Other than Levi, I would have to name the anonymous working man of the 19th century as the ultimate denim icon: our first customer, the man who made Levi's jeans part of the DNA of America.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?

Ooh, my 525 boot cut jeans. Love these jeans, they are a fabulous fit, especially on my 53-year-old body. I also love my Levi's Capital E "Swank" jeans.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

You know, I like all denim trends. That's because I love how versatile denim is, you can do so much with it, and I love to see how creative people get with denim, whether it's design, finishing, or packaging. As a historian it's a treat for me to work all day with vintage Levi's jeans, and then go out on the street and see the modern interpretation of the original.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?

Wear it everywhere!

PHOTO: Hangauer/Kissinger

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Thomas Onorato and Max Wixom, OW! PR

Many of you know Thomas Onorato from his hugely popular book, Confessions from the Velvet Ropes as well begging to get past his guestlist at parties such as MisShapes and Motherf*cker. What you don't know is that Thomas and his business partner, Max Wixom, have started OW! PR, and work with some of the largest names in the fashion an entertainment industries. Mercedes-Benz? They've done it. Hermes? Check. Derek Lam? We were there with them this season.

So, what do two of the most important tastemakers wear most often? Jeans of course! In the middle of the fashion week hustle, Thomas and Max took a time out to bring you this week's Five Questions for Five Pockets.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
Thomas: Lee jeans when I was four which I got with my mom, Toni, at Bradlee's in Bloomfield, NJ.

Max: Either Levi's or Calvin Klein jeans in the '80s.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
Thomas: Talitha Getty, the first "it" girl to put a dress over skinny jeans back in the '70s and the Ramones. You don't get more iconic than that.

Max: Brooke Shields. I was really into that campaign [for CK] when I was growing up on an island in the middle of the Pacific.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
Thomas: Ksubi, Trash & Vaudeville, Paper Denim, and Cheap Monday

Max: I'm enjoying Levi's Capitol E series and I'm kind of a sucker for the occasional H&M as they're cut very well for my body.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
Thomas: Overtly tricked out, treated, weathered, or dyed denim jeans. Gag me, please!

Max: Color nonsense and tricked out shenanigans

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Thomas: Simple and worn-in is always the best look.

Max: Never go shopping for it without my business partner, Thomas. 

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott is one of our favorite people in the whole wide world. He never takes fashion too seriously, and his show is always the perfect mix of cartoon meets couture. Making us even happier than seeing Ashley Olsen front-row at his last NY show before jumping to Paris, was his collaboration with Aussie denim giant, Ksubi (formerly Tsubi.) Incorporating his bright prints with cultural references, Jeremy Loves Ksubi reminds us why everyone from Bjork to Lindsay Lohan to Cory Kennedy, Loves Jeremy. Oh, and we can't forget, Lapo Elkann is fan too as he wore Jeremy's Adicolor pants to Marc Jacob's holiday party.

Time for us to chill with the fan-out. Check out Jeremy's answers to this week's Five Questions for Five Pockets and look for his next runway collection to hit Paris in October.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
I'm not sure if they were the first, but I definitely remember wearing Jordache jeans when I was in elementary school and feeling like I was it.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

Levi's 501. It's not easy to get around the way they have been etched into the popular subconscious through images.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
Jeremy Loves Ksubi, of course!

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
I don't really concern myself with trends.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
HAVE FUN!

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Vipada Wongpatanasin, Old Navy

As we posted before, we're more than excited about Old Navy's latest denim expansion. We thought our favorite part of the transformation was their new trouser jeans and colored denim range. That was until we were lucky enough to grab a few minutes with Vipada Wongpatanasin, the brand's senior women's denim designer. With our mutual love of Balenciaga darling, Charlotte Gainsbourg (shown below at right) and the facelift she's given the mass chain, we want to be Vipada's new best friend.

Check out the Old Navy edition of Five Questions for Five Pockets below:

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
Vintage Wrangler, the most beautiful broken twill denim ever. 

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
No one in particular. I would say it’s more about the iconic images for example, Marlon Brando in the wild one, Marilyn Monroe in her curve hugging peddle pusher, Jane Birkin in her hi-rise bell. They all embodied their own unique denim icon. I guess Charlotte Gainsbourg is a great example for the modern day icon because she is so effortless in her denim. Ultimate denim icon to me is more about the wearers than the makers. So anyone of us in some way is the ultimate denim icon. 

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
Levi’s vintage 646 orange tab.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
In your face embellished denim and hip hop denim.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Wear it like you mean it and love it to end.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Craig Smith, professional hunting guide and cowboy

We promised you a special edition of Five Questions for Five Pockets from our trip to Wyoming. Following through, we'd like to introduce you to Craig Smith, owner of Triple Three Outfitters. He's a professional hunting guide at his ranch in Buffalo, WY, and all around tough guy. Craig's the kind of guy who ropes cows, starts campfires with flint and steel, and plays poker in the back room of local bars.

Be it riding his horses, hunting in the mountains, or working on his ranch, Craig is always in his jeans. We thought he'd give us a different perspective on denim rather than our usual fashion-focused POV. Check out our wild west edition of Five Questions for Five Pockets:

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
The first pair I can remember were a pair of Levi's when I was about nine. My mom took me shopping at Santerians in Hatboro, PA. There was nothing I hated more than shopping. At that time I was practicing shooting my gun and trapping animals in my parents suburban neighborhood. I can remember making myself vomit whenever it came time to go clothing shopping.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
Country singer, George Strait. He's a classic. Always acts like a gentleman and his jeans always look great--never like a costume get-up.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
Wrangler's cowboy cut jeans 34w36l and anything from Carhartt. I used to wear Levi's when I lived on the East coast, but I can't find the same fit out here. I like sturdy jeans that take a beatin' without falling apart.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
People cutting slits in their jeans. Why mess up a good pair of jeans? Plus, it just looks stupid. Also, button fly jeans. I gave them a shot, but it's just too much work to get them buttoned back up.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Comfortable and durable. They have to feel good and hold up with the wear and tear.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Andrew Buckler, Buckler

Launched in 2001, Buckler has established itself as the perfect mix of traditional American blue jeans with a Brit twist. Icons such as Iggy Pop, Tommy Lee, and the Stones have been seen in Andrew Buckler's tailored denim pieces.  With a past position with Ungaro, it's no surprise Buckler's biggest fans are also the biggest names in rock and roll. Check out Andrew's answers below in the third installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
I was living in the UK; it was a pair of Diesel circa 1980--acid wash--they were the only pair of jeans I owned apart from my own in addition to a pair of Daryl K jeans and a pair of vintage Levi's which cost me an arm and a leg.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
Bernard Lichtenstein! No many know who the hell he is. He was probably the first fashion designer of denim jeans. Levi Strauss created the denim jean which was a work wear jean to be sturdy and strong and to last forever. Lichtenstein worked for Blue Bell aka Wrangler to design boot cut jeans for rodeo riders in the 1940's.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
The Buckler "Franklet" skinny grey denims. The cut also comes in raw and washed indigos from selvedge. The narrow cut is still a statement, especially on guys.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
Denim and trend is an oxymoron. I think the "trend" is all going away and the companies and styles left standing will have lasted the test of time. No more bells and whistles. Keep it lean and mean.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Apart from don't wear over designed denim, as in Q4, I think the rule is to keep it organic. I don't just mean the cotton in the fabric, I mean the whole process. Too many jean washes involve carcinogens and chemicals that don't just screw the environment, they literally damage the workers. Buckler has just introduced an organic selvedge denim in the "Angry Anglo" and "Franklet" fits. We reviewed the whole process of making and washing the jeans to find ways to make it as environmentally safe as possible.