Replay's Just Add Water collection produced using Clariant International's dyeing technique There was an interesting article in WWD recently titled "Denim Makers Adopt Eco-Friendly Methods". In the article, author Ross Tucker discusses the impact that denim production has on the environment and the techniques some companies are developing in order to minimize that impact. The most common technique with the highest consumer awareness is the use of organic cotton, but it "does little to change [the] numbers," according to the author. It's a worthy cause to purchase denim using cotton grown without the use of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, but its important for those purchasing it to understand that truly organic cotton is a low-yield crop and can't support the world's demand for denim. But all is not lost. Some of the other techniques mentioned are very promising.
Chemical company Clariant International's new dyeing agent, developed in conjuntion with Replay, decreases the amount of trips to the vat by more than half. Laser technology, around for some time, has advanced to a point where a pair of ripped and aged vintage jeans can be scanned to reproduce an exact replica. Even more impactful is the industrial washing machine, the G2, that produces various shades of denim using air technology as opposed to water and chemicals. According to the article, Jeanologia, the owner of the G2, estimates that if every company were to adopt their machine, the amount of water saved could supply the entire country of Spain with clean drinking water for 8 months. Wow!
Another technique mentioned was blending denim, which is primarily made of cotton, with 25% Tencel. For those that don't know, Tencel is a fiber produced by the eucalyptus tree. Lenzing Fibers, the producers of Tencel theorize that by using 25% Tencel, the acreage and water used to grow the cotton plant will be reduced by a proportionate 25%. This is a bit of a head scratcher because wouldn't the water and acreage used to grow the cotton be replaced by the eucalyptus tree? And besides, we prefer denim to be as close to 100% cotton as possible.
Whatever the method, within the apparel/fashion industry the focus is primarily on aesthetic, so it's a relief to know that the companies behind the scenes are doing what they can to protect the environment.
A portion of this informative and insightful article is posted below, but read it in it's entirety on WWD.com
Jeanologia's G2 Industrial Washing Machine
Brands seeking to improve their environmental credentials can look beyond the use of organic cotton to a range of new products and technologies that lower the levels of chemicals, water and energy needed to manufacture denim.
Although the denim industry has long been known to be resource intensive, a full picture wasn’t known publicly until Levi Strauss & Co. shared results of its life cycle assessment on what went into making one pair of its iconic Levi’s 501 style.
Examining the 2006 production year for jeans headed to the U.S. market, Levi’s found that making one pair of 501s required almost 920 gallons of water, 400 megajoules of energy and expelled 32 kilograms of carbon dioxide. Levi’s said this was equivalent to running a garden hose for 106 minutes, driving 78 miles and powering a computer for 556 hours.
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