May 01, 2012

At the showroom: William Watson, Fall/Winter 2012

Avant-garde New York label William Watson is stirring up menswear with its angular reinterpretations of classic sartorial elements. Shirt collars, trouser knees and blazer elbows get a faceted convex makeover.

Juxtaposing the severity of these sharp lines and the collection's dark color palette, bright psychedelic or ethnic print linings add a dose of whimsy. Tailoring techniques generally reserved for woven formalwear (such as the center back pleat) update standout sweatshirt silhouettes. Perfect for FW12 editorials, this collection is key to building the William Watson brand.

White Mountaineering x Porter Used Denim Backpack, SS12

For SS12, the White Mountaineering x Porter Used Denim Backpack (seen here in blue) combines the rugged outdoorsy style of White Mountaineering with Porter’s famed construction quality. Full of character and made from recycled premium denim, each rucksack-inspired bag has a unique aged appearance… available at oki-ni.com.

April 30, 2012

At the showroom: Norwegian brand JohnnyLove, FW12

Combining dapper menswear classics with urban streetcar attitude, JohnnyLove creates a fresh spirited line that is thankfully less about heritage replicas and more about fashion-forward fits that still incorporate traditional elements. Slightly aerodynamic hems update elegant outerwear lines, while innovative performance fabrics complement time-honored closure and pocket details.

One of my favorite pieces draws from a classically quilted field coat; it looks fitted but with technical "give" in all the right spots, creating easy movement and functional comfort. This modern approach to sartorial menswear carries over to the label's checked shirts, raw indigo denim and classic sports jackets.

Manuscript Magazine, "Alter Ego", 2012

Manuscript offers a fresh, intelligent take on men's fashion and style. Published quarterly, my new favorite magazine features profiles, features and news, along with standout editorials. The recent "Alter Ego" photo shoot focuses on accessible urban denim looks from Wrangler, G-Star RAW and Ksubi, as well as Australian label Bassike.

Manuscript Magazine, "Blue Beards", April 2012

Australian men's journal Manuscript is one of my favorite new magazines to hit newsstands and the blogosphere. Featuring denim, knitwear and suiting from Lagerfeld, Bally, CK Calvin Klein, Burberry and Australian brands Jac+Jack and Three Over One, the "Blue Beards" editorial underscores menswear's ongoing blue theme.

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April 27, 2012

Hercules Magazine editorial, Parker Gregory, Spring 2012

Hercules magazine manages to merge serious fashion with lighthearted ease for its spring editorial featuring model Parker Gregory. While the clothes range from formal suiting to denim and sweats, the Los Angles man-about-town concept remains cohesive, sexy and fun. 

Denim-on-denim styling gets an update with dark jeans and a denim print tee by Calvin Klein. Debonair double-breast jackets look kind of hot after seasons overshadowed by shrunken single-breast styles. I'd love to see some of these Hollywood-man jackets with jeans. Novel floral prints and color-blocking by Prada work with a baseball cap for a weekend look. My favorite look has retro suburban undertones with pleated trousers and a textured tee by Emporio Armani. And what's an L.A. spread without some tiny, beachside knit shorts, provided by DSquared2.

Waste(twice) "Captain Basque" short-sleeve tee

Here is some T-shirt inspiration courtesy of Waste(twice) by way of jamesrmcnally.com (one of my favorite curated menswear blogs). I'm loving the pieced-together take on the Breton striper top. As with most Japanese labels, Waste(twice) always offers a bit of whimsy in its creations, which appeals to young men. However, this tee is cute without being precious, and I don't see it not looking great on non-teenagers. Translation? I want it.

April 26, 2012

A.P.C. celebrates its 25th year!

Where does the time go?

According to the A.P.C. Journal and this accompanying video, A.P.C. is 25 years-old. Watch this little film for a few audio reminders of what has happened in youth culture, music, lifestyle and fashion between the label's start and today.

April 25, 2012

Kris Van Assche x Lee Jeans, Fall/Winter 2012

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Dior Homme artistic director Kris Van Assche has partnered with Lee Jeans on a capsule denim collection for FW12. Available by July, the collaboration is a contemporary reinterpretation of Lee's storied workwear styles. Incorporating the minimalist denim design aesthetic he created at Dior and his namesake line, Van Assche brings elegant nonchalance to the heritage brand. Available in dark brown or blue jean, the five menswear items include a classic denim jacket, a bomber/blouson, a jean shirt, chinos and standard 5-pocket jeans.

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At the showroom: Raven Denim, Fall/Winter 2012

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Raven creative director Ya-el Torbati continues to develop innovative cuts in specialty denim fabrics. Last week, I visited the label's FW12 press event at the penthouse of the Dream Hotel. A leader in "denim trouser" styles, Raven evolves its core collection, offering key fits in non-denim materials. Meeting the demand of women unable to wear jeans to the office, Raven has debuted beautiful suiting herringbones and houndstooths in cotton/rayon/nylon blends.

For FW12, Raven has collaborated with designer Stephen Burrows on a rocker-style mini collection of skinnies, short shorts and jackets. Accent red stitching against black denim and a moody snakeskin print are key surface highlights.

My favorite silhouettes from Raven's new collection are the pieced skinnies with multicolor indigo panels at the leg. I also like the engineered placement scattered print, which evolves the all-over print jean concept currently sweeping retail. These nonchalant, subtle takes on major denim trends make a statement without asking for one. Similarly, the matte shine of Raven's coated surfaces is a welcome alternative to the season's high gloss effects.

For men, Raven's Green Hybrid Denim collection includes low-impact organic cotton and recycled cotton for its statement rugged fits. I love the indigo-treated denim-like canvas and the vintage workwear herringbone.

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