For Holiday 2012 and Winter 2013, German brand A KIND OF GUISE spent over 3 months authentically weather-beating denim shirting, exposing rolls of fabric to the natural elements in northern Italy's mountainous region near Lake Garda. Handmade into numbered shirts (only 100 created), the fabric tells a story of sun, rain and wind. Watch the video for inspiration.
After 33 years of research and development, DIESEL has succeeded in creating a commercially viable hybrid textile with the style and durability of denim and comfort and relaxed attitude of sweatpant material. The "woven jersey" fusion fabric uses the same weaving method as denim, but with added techniques that mimic French terry or active fleece. The JOGG collection for FW12 features spot-on indigo treatments and authentic denim abrashion and wash-down effects. While in keeping with Diesel's design ethos, sporty active accents, drawstring waists and baggier silhouettes denote the theme and direction of this specialty line.
LEVI'S Commuter Collection is back for a second season. Watch this video to see the material capabilities and design details that make this stylish work-appropriate denim line vital for on-the-go city cyclists. Reinforced features and stretch fabrics allow for increased mobility, activity and comfort. Other performance characteristics include sanitized odor protection and weather resistance. The higher back rise covers the wearer's back while seated, and the utility waistband can hold a bike U-lock. Reflective accents are key for night visibility.
Slick waxed treatments continue to hold sway on the runways and in premium lifestyle collections, updating denim, outerwear, jacket and bag textures. All-natural Otter Wax Heavy Duty Fabric Wax is the plant-based alternative to traditional oilskin and paraffin treatments. According to New York Magazine, "the mess-free bars rub smoothly onto tin cloth and denim, waterproofing or re-waterproofing fabric without leaving behind oily gunk or odor."
Check out the natural vertical fading on this pair of Eternal 811s. Worn over time, the denim fades and ages, creating novel vintage surface interest. According to easyculture, the look is unique to the all cotton, unsanforized (not pre-shrunk), and uncalendered 14.5oz denim. Made in Japan of 30-times-dyed indigo yarns, each pair is machine washed and then hung outdoors in direct sunlight to dry. This non-agitating drying method creates a rigid, crisp hand. Check out Blue in Green to see the jeans in their original non-worn state.
Last year, Etro introduced the concept of do-it-yourself coloring or dyeing with "The 'Cooked' Shirt", an online book by Kean Etro. The how-to manual features cooking techniques and very natural dyestuffs for giving one-off color effects to Etro's pristine white shirts. While my favorite method is for the blueberry-baked shirt, I'm more likely to sport the salt-cooked version. All of the techniques could provide new surface interest to thrifted denim and chinos.
Production process transparency has reached an art form with this R&D video for Stone Island's garment-dyed down puffer. Dye and wash houses have gotten a bad wrap (and sometimes rightly so), so it is nice to see a company highlighting its proccesses loud and clear. Granted, the film does not go into environmental specifics, but hopefully this is where an industry-wide public conversation begins.
Helmut Lang, New York City
